Hey Pumpkin: Yountville’s North Block Restaurant elevates a fall favorite
Between the golden leaves on the vines and trees, the arrival of holiday invitations, and the softer light and coolness in the evening air, it finally felt like fall in Yountville. It seemed like a good week to see what was on the menu at North Block Restaurant.
I had not had the chance to stop in since we previewed in the Sun a couple of months ago the new menu and culinary direction of the restaurant under the leadership of Chef de Cuisine Antonio Natal, a Napa Valley native.
My curiosity was piqued when the restaurant recently announced a limited-time, four-course menu focused upon a singular fall staple: the pumpkin.
Immediately, I sped through a quick word association in my mind. Pumpkin soup, pumpkin bars, pumpkin seeds, pumpkin muffins, pumpkin gnocchi, pumpkin cheesecake, pumpkin pie. While I didn’t think that the overt and overused pumpkin spice would make its way onto a fine dining menu in Yountville, I was intrigued by the thought of a pumpkin-filled succession of tastes.
Pumpkin two ways, four ways, a deconstructed pumpkin perhaps? How many types of “pumpkins” exist? What qualifies as a pumpkin? Are all pumpkins edible? Isn’t a pumpkin simply the most beloved variety of squash? They are rather cute, after all.
Arriving at North Block Restaurant, we found flaming, torchiere heaters lining the outdoor, sidewalk seating space. Once inside, the warm light and sophisticated music shifted the mood. I noticed that the entire service team wore shirts with NBR embroidered on the upper sleeve. NBR in NoYo, so apropos.
Cantinetta Piero and Redd Wood restaurants occupied the space from 2009 to 2020 before NBR opened to coincide with the rebrand of the hotel property, in which the restaurant is located, to North Block Hotel.
My husband, Tim, and I were immediately greeted by lead server Ray Arredondo, who grew up in Napa. While I was curiously committed to the pre-fixe pumpkin menu, my husband was interested in other items on the broad menu, which provided the opportunity for both of us to try an array of Natal’s cuisine.
Arredondo assured us that his courses would be timed to match mine; the service throughout the evening was unobtrusive and impeccable.
We dined on a Tuesday evening, and while the restaurant was not at full capacity, a solid crowd filled much of the dining room, and several guests were also seated at the bar. The décor is elegant in a lean mid-century modern fashion, with touches of velvet upholstery, ample smooth wood panels and furnishings and glass; the backlit bar is a focal point. A floor-to-ceiling glass wall provides a living cinema of passersby, bringing into the space the energy of Yountville just outside the doors.
NBR General Manager Jessica Eisenberg moved swiftly around the room, supporting the team, acting as a sommelier for large parties and interacting with guests.
A pumpkin is indeed a squash. There are some varieties that are preferred for cooking, such as the smaller sugar or pie pumpkins. As soon as I sat down at NBR I spotted kabocha, also known as a Japanese pumpkin, as an ingredient on the special menu. Other types of squash are also used interchangeably for the pumpkin experience.
Comfort food takes an elegant turn on North Block’s special pumpkin menu, and the portions are extremely generous.
Wood-roasted kabocha resting in a pool of creamy stracciatella, topped with a layer of pumpkin-seed gremolata, then finished with a Calabrian chili, sherry vinegar started the pumpkin parade with a kick. Warm and comforting, the layers of flavor and a crispy topping added texture to what would otherwise be a simple piece of squash.
Across the table, a mountain of ice held six perfectly shucked Miyagi oysters from Washington on the half shell ($25) that were accompanied by three concentrated sauces offering a unique approach to dressing each shell: a ramekin of concord grape mignonette, and a house-made hot sauce and intriguing lemon-fennel tincture, both served in diminutive tincture bottles.
While my husband was next served the ample chopped Caesar salad ($20), the second course of the pumpkin experience was the pumpkin caramelle with robiola, brown butter, an aged balsamic drizzle and hazelnuts.
Caramelle is the prettiest of pastas, shaped to resemble a piece of wrapped candy; this version was filled with pumpkin. Stunning on the plate, this dish was again multi-flavored and intriguing with the combination of rich cheese, the tang of the balsamic and hazelnut crunch. The only dim spot in all the dishes we tried was the thicker density of the dough at the twist on each end of the pasta, which had an undercooked texture.
Seared Hokkaideo scallops ($45) with a pumpkin seed molé mingled with delicata squash, pickled apple and cilantro for my companion’s entrée.
My main course, Akaushi short rib served over honeynut squash with charred radicchio and beef jus, was a rich, hearty and deeply satisfying example of what North Block does so well with this pumpkin menu: it makes comfort food elegant.
Natal’s focus upon seasonal ingredients is key to the pre-fixe, as well as the entire menu. Napa Valley influences, along with the flavor inspiration of his Latin-Italian heritage, move standard menu items from ordinary to interesting. The Caesar salad, for example, was finished with a brown butter anchovy dressing, sourdough croutons, pecorino cheese and cured egg yolk.
The pumpkin menu is competitively priced at $75 per person. Other items on the dinner menu range from wood-fired olives ($10) to six Ossetra caviar cones ($175) on the starter menu, to sides and wood-fired pizzas ($16 to $28), and main courses and pastas ($28 to $60).
I did not even glance at the dessert menu, as it seemed impossible that I could even consider another bite. Then the fourth course of the pumpkin menu revealed the sole pumpkin spice hint. The whipped, light and sweet finale was a delicate pumpkin budino made with burnt honey, mascarpone and a pepita brittle.
North Block Restaurant, at 6757 Washington St. in Yountville, serves dinner from 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Its daily Happiest Hour runs from 3 to 6 p.m.
A new lunch menu is available Friday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. until dinner service and features seasonal salads, sandwiches, house-made pizzas and pasta and the NB breakfast “Sammich” with Hobbs’ bacon, tomato, arugula, Calabrian chili aioli and a side of tater tots.
Beyond the pumpkin menu, the à la carte dinner menu evolves with the seasons, so there’s always something new to taste. Especially appealing to locals, the NBR Sunday Supper is a three-course dinner ($49 per person) featuring an appetizer, pizza or pasta and dessert. This menu changes weekly.
If going out for Thanksgiving is a preference, NBR is offering a prix-fixe dinner ($125 per person). Natal’s menu begins with a butternut squash soup and warm Parker House rolls, followed by persimmon and stracciatella salad. The main course features wood-roasted Diestel turkey breast and turkey leg confit accompanied by cranberry sauce, gravy, fennel sausage stuffing, whipped potatoes, and roasted Brussels sprouts. Dessert is a choice of pumpkin pie or tiramisu.
In addition to the dining room, and sidewalk seating on Washington St., guests can also enjoy the dog-friendly courtyard. The restaurant is family-friendly, welcomes walk-ins and offers on-site parking for guests. To reserve visit OpenTable.
I went North Block to see what Chef Antonio Natal could do with a pumpkin. By the time we left, I was already thinking about what we might order next time. We’ll be back, and we’ll bring friends. A few more people at the table means there will be a few more dishes to taste.
